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Weekly Tips FEB 07
Weekly Tips FEB 07
Check these pages weekly for our Handy Tips and Tricks for the Do-It-Yourselfer. You'll save time and money as you work on your projects... February 26, 2007
Double These Bulbs for More Light, You'll Still Save Money
The average family home can have up to 80 conventional lights. As the price per kilowatt hour of Hydro Increases, most families tend to focus on reductions in energy consumption around large appliances. However lighting in the home can constitute as much as twenty to 25 percent of the families hydro consumption. Traditional incandescent light bulbs generate light by converting about fifteen percent of the energy consumed as light and the rest as heat. Although these bulbs revolutionized our lives, the introduction of fluorescent lighting gave us an opportunity particularly in commercial settings to generate much more light for the same amount of energy. This is because fluorescent lighting can convert up to 80 percent of consumed energy into useful light thus reducing the wasteful production of heat to less than twenty percent. Several years ago screw-in fluorescent lights became available for residential use. However early products had some drawbacks. Initially these bulbs were extremely expensive and usually cannot offer the equivalent brightness of the bulbs they were meant to replace. Furthermore early fluorescent bulbs were typically producing a harsh commercial type white light similar to commercial environments, making them somewhat unsuitable for residential applications.
The average bulb could cost as much as $15.00 thus making the cost of relamping an entire home as high as $900.00, yet still had the drawbacks of harsh lighting. Today, screw-in fluorescent light bulbs for residential applications have come a long way. With much higher levels of production prices have dropped and many retailers now offer a choice of either bright white light or a softer warmer light more suitable for most residential applications. Some retailers are selling bulbs for about $3.00 apiece and discount stores are selling the smaller wattage (and correspondingly lumens output) for as low as $1 now. Finally, you can get a screw-in bulb that will last for 1000 hours for a dollar with a soft white, residential grade light! However, you will likely find that when you take out your 100 watt bulb or 60 watt bulb the fluorescent replacement will not be as bright.. There’s a simple solution for those standard sockets. Just add a “Y” socket to the fixture and screw in two 60 watt equivalent fluorescent bulbs. These replacements consume about 13 watts so even if you use two of them, to replace a 100 watt incandescent bulb, you’ve reduced energy consumption by about 74%. Over 1,000 hours of use, even if the cost of the “Y” connector is $3, your can potentially save around $22. Your savings will vary based on what you pay per kilowatt hour in your area. These lights consume so much less power that even if you use two to get the desired light, the savings can really add up and you’ll be chaging bulbs less frequently. One last hint. You’ll really rack up the savings if you use these bulbs in areas around the home like outside security lighting that perhaps stay on all night. You’ll really gain efficiency with bulbs that have to stay on for prolonged periods.
February 19, 2007
Making perfect blind holes
 Often we need to make blind holes with a clean and flat bottom, that do not pass through the wood. A good example of this is when we make the main rails for bunk beds or standard beds. Most bits with pilot tips will come through the other side. And many do not leave a clean flat bottom. The solution to this dilemma is the little known miracle: The Forstner Bit!
Invest the money in at least a few of these in the 1”, 1/4” and 1 ½” sizes.
This bit will also not deflect when it hits knots and will always
Give you a clean hole with a square bottom. February 12, 2007
All About
Shop
Compressors...
The late nineties generated a revolution for the do-it-yourselfer in affordable shop compressors that were available at most building and hardware centers. Today, an array of compressors abound from a modest $49 up to $4000 with many differing configurations and performance statistics.
Should the do-it-yourselfer invest in a compressor? Better still, what are its merits and what does one do with a compressor? If I need one, which of the hundreds on the market do I purchase?
Before we dive into these questions, understand that most compressors, regardless of configuration or cost accomplish several simple tasks:
1. They compress air to some predetermined pressure.
2. They store the air in reserve in a steel tank for future use.
3. They manage the pressure in the tank to prevent over-inflation.
4. They regulate the output pressure through a control system that is either equal to or lower than the tank pressure.
That summarizes the essence of most compressors, in spite of the array of them on the market. With the compressed air that they produce we can attach accessories to them to accomplish various tasks:
1. Spin things
2. Oscillate things
3. Blow or inflate things
4. Propel things
Out of all the accessories that can be attached to your compressor, they fall into a handful of simple categories:
Accessories that spin include impact wrenches, socket wrenches, rotary sanders, belt sanders, drills, grinders and similar devices.
Oscillating devices include orbital sanders, cutters and other accessories.
Compressors are often used to drive blowers, inflate cylinders or tires and “blow wands”. Compressed air to blow and clean metal and wood parts is a valuable feature of these systems.
Compressed air is widely used to propel nails using a nail gun with your compressor. One you’ve used a compressed air nail gun, conventional hammers are only considered for occasional use.
Indeed a compressed air system seems like a very versatile thing to have in the shop! Once you use one, you will be sold instantly! However using accessories that run on compressed air use two aspects of the system critically:
Pressure and Volume of air.
Some accessories require large amounts of air at high pressures. Others require smaller amounts of air at high pressures and then other accessories require large amounts of air at lower pressures.
Fortunately, the do-it-yourselfer can purchase a modest system that will be a real asset in the shop and do MOST of the things that are required.
Many people look at compressors with one number in mind - top end pressure in pounds per square inch (PSI). Many small compressors can deliver a small amount of air at a high pressure momentarily, but do not have the volume in reserve to make them useful or practical. So ideally we need a compressor that can deliver a respectable pressure for a sustained period so that we can successfully run our desired accessory.
That means that a decent compressor can compress air into its reserve (tank), deliver air at a predetermined pressure and run an accessory.As the reserve pressure diminishes, the compressor kicks in and replenishes the tank. The accessory that you are using either runs continuously, or you pause momentarily as the tank charges up again. This cycle is called the recovery stage of the compressor.
Different accessories demand different amounts of air at different pressures. A modest compressor will serve you well to blow dust and dirt off of wood and metal parts in the shop. It will also handily inflate tires on your car or bike and can be a great companion on vacation when the rubber dinghy lies limp in the trunk. Smaller compressors can also run finishing nail guns that are priceless for trim work. You can even use them to run a small paint sprayer for small work in the shop using stain or enamel.
So, the modest compressor can nail small things, blow and clean, inflate and paint. For an investment of about $400 plus accessories you can add one to your shop and enjoy its many benefits. Most of these compressors come on wheels and you can use them in the shop, the garage or tote them to the cottage. These compressors also typically run on 110 volts making them very versatile.
Compressors in this price range solve many problems but they cannot do everything. A large framing nail gun uses so much air for every nail, that they will be unable to “keep up” with the gun. Driving multiple nails will exhaust the reserve to the point that there is inadequate pressure to drive the next nail. In some cases even when the tank is topped up, the pressure of the system is inadequate to drive the nail. These systems deliver a top pressure around 100 PSI. This is a good pressure but may be low for many framing guns.
Rotary devices may also not work with these compressors. Disk sanders, drills and similar devices consume large volumes of air at high pressure and may stop functioning. A good example is a half inch impact wrench. These units require high pressure and high volumes of air to run. A small compressor may not run many rotary devices.
So when you consider the purchase of a compressor, consider these factors before you buy: 1. What are the essential tasks for my system?
2. Do I need high volume or pressure?
3. Can I run on 110 VAC?
4. Should my system be portable?
5. What is my budget?
6. How often will I use my compressor?
We have talked about use of a compressor, now let’s talk about its construction that may affect your decision. Cheaper compressors came on the market a few years ago that offer reasonable pressures at modest volumes. This was accomplished using a diaphragm mechanism to compress air, driven by a motor. This is much cheaper than a traditional piston compressor and also requires no oil for lubrication.
They are great for the hobbyist but they have their drawbacks:
1. The compressor is only good for a limited degree of use before failure.
2. The recovery rate is low because the system compresses a small amount of air one each cycle.
3. The system is limited to about 100 PSI.
More volume, pressure and faster recovery times need the use of a traditional piston based compressor. Piston compressors usually offer high volumes, performance and pressures, but they can cost substantially more than the diaphragm systems. Their cost is justified for the do-it-yourselfer who uses a compressor frequently and needs higher pressures and volumes.
Piston compressors also come in two and three stage configurations. This means that they have either two or three pistons that sequentially boost the pressure up to as high as 200 PSI. Multi stage compressors are expensive because of their complexity and are typically limited to the professional user.
So in a nutshell, the do-it-yourselfer who will require modest amounts of compressed air at no higher than the 100 psi mark, can do fine with the cheaper diaphragm compressors. A five horsepower unit with a 20 gallon reserve tank will prove most versatile. Appreciate that the oil-less diaphragm compressors are cheaper units that are designed for light duty usage.
If your budget can accommodate it, consider a single stage piston compressor, 5 to 10 horsepower with a 40 gallon tank. The piston compressor will however, not be portable and will require a dedicated 220 volt line. These are factors you’ll need to consider.
Other factors that should be considered once the type of compressor is decided upon is whether an upright or a horizontal model is preferred. Vertical units take less floor spaced and if on wheels can be moved to other locations with little effort. Horizontal units however may be preferred when they are to be installed under a work counter.
Finally, as you select the tools you will use with your compressor, examine the air consumption of the most demanding tool, expressed in cubic feet per minute (CFM). Look at the compressor you will be considering for the TRUE output of air in CFM. Compressors are rated in theoretical peak CFM output and TRUE CFM output. The TRUE CFM output will determine what volume and pressure will be delivered to the tool. If the CFM is lower than the requirements of the tool, the tool will cease to function properly and must be shut down until the compressor recovers. This can be alleviated by taking periodic breaks from working and allowing the system to recharge and recover.
Some do-it-yourselfers add branches to their air line so they can run two accessories at a time. If you do this, your system will need to deliver the sum of the CFM requirements of the two accessories.
Once you use a compressed air system you’ll wonder how you ever got by without one! February 5, 2007
A Handful of Handy Hints
Here is a Handful of Handy Tips for the do-it-yourselfer. Try them out to save time and money and make jobs easier.
1. Remove stubborn screws by trying to turn them in not out. This often helps to unlock stubborn screws. Work them back and forth until loose enough to remove.
2. When hammering small finishing nails use a small hammer and put your standard 16 ounce hammer aside. Save your fingers by holding the nails with needle nose pliers. Sometimes you can even use a comb to hold a small nail.
3. Need to get a rough measurement but forgot your tape measure? Try these handy techniques to get a rough idea:
- A standard Canadian or American bill of currency is about 6" long
- Try using your belt, from the buckle to the hole your belt notches into. If you know your waist size you've got a crude measuring system
- Most floor tiles are now 12" by 12". Lay objects on the floor on tiles and get an idea of lengths based the tiles.
- Most T-Bar ceiling tiles are 2 ft by 4 ft or 2 ft by 2 ft. These can be really handy for approximate measurements of floor/ceiling areas.
- Long distances can be paced off if you know the length of your standard pace. Calibrate your pace by first walking a known distance like the length of a known room, building or between two hydro poles placed 100 feet apart. Once you know the average length of your pace, you can use it to approximate longer distances.
4. You can test the condition of paint on a surface by attaching some masking tape to it. Briskly pull it off and if the paint comes with it, the paint is unsound.
5. If your house is serviced by natural gas, you can detect even the smallest leak by brushing suspected joints with dishwashing soap.
6. Check for dampness in your basement by taping a large piece of foil tightly to the foundation wall. Leave it for a couple of days. Examine the foil. If there is moisture on the side facing the interior of the basement, then humidity is condensing from the air in your basement. You'll need to improve ventilation to solve this. If the moisture is between the foil side facing the foundation after you remove it, moisture is seeping in from the outside through the foundation wall. In this case you'll need to waterproof the foundation wall from the outside.
7. Consider using a premium water based paint whenever you suspect wood will expand and contract with radical changes in humidity. This may apply to outdoor projects, bathrooms and kitchens. Just make sure that when used outdoors, that the paint is rated for outdoor use. Latex based paints are more flexible, adhere better to wood and tolerate expansion and contraction better than oil based paints.
8. All homes today have smoke detectors. For a modest cost, consider a Carbon Monoxide detector as well as one fire extinguisher on each floor. Consider dry ABC rated fire extinguishers, that will extinguish wood and paper, oil and grease and electrical fires. Most building centers now sell them for a reasonable price. Note that they are dated and need to be either professional inspected by your fire department or replaced periodically. (This is typically every 2 years...)
9. How up to date is your electrical system? One easy update is the installation of safer Ground Fault Interrupt or GFI outlets. These are now required for outdoor outlets, kitchens and bathrooms. GFI outlets readily replace existing ones and will trip when a short or a change in voltage occurs. GFI's can save lives and are only about $15 at your local building center.
10. Recently, screw-in florescent lights have come down in price and offer real savings in lighting costs. Most important, many of these units now duplicate the softer warmer lighting of a traditional incandescent bulb. Lighting comprises at least 20% of your electricity costs. You can save up to 75% using these bulbs and most will last at least 1000 hours or more. Buy one as a test and see what hue of light it creates. Try to get bulbs with softer lighting and avoid the harsh white ones popular a few years ago. One last note, some of these money saving bulbs take a few minutes to warm up and deliver the maximum light output. This makes them great for long term light use such as outdoor security lights and lights for your average room. They will likely not be suitable for short term instances like bathrooms or closets. February 1, 2007
HOW TO READ THE SCALE ON BUILDING PLANS
Expressing a design on paper in most cases requires a reduction of the concept to fit the sheet size used for the plans. This means that in order to share measurements with the reader of the plans, the designer must list critical dimensions. A part that is a few inches on the plans will likely represent a part that is actually several feet in length. If a plan depicts a one inch component as one inch on the plans, then the implied scale of the plans is 1:1. In other words, one inch of distance on the plans is one inch in the real world. Such a scale is rarely the case. To portray a furniture project or something like a shed or house on paper requires scaling down of the drawings to fit the paper. Inches need to represent feet in most cases. Common scales used on these types of plans include 1:4, 1/4 or 1 inch = 4 feet. All three of the previous expressions mean the same thing. In this case, one inch of distance on the paper represents 4 feet of distance in the real world. Usually for larger projects, the scale needs to be incremented upwards, perhaps using a 1/8 or more scale. In that case, one inch represents 8 feet of distance in the real world. Once you have the scale of the plans, you can measure, or "Scale off" any distance on the plans. If you measure a part on the plans that have a scale of 1:8, that is 3 inches, the part in the real world would be 3 times 8 or 24 feet. A part that is 2 1/4" on the plans will be 2.25 (2 1/4" converted to decimal number) times 8 or 18 feet when you build the project. You can even spend about ten dollars for a contractor's scale that will have some of the more popular scales on it, that automatically express real world dimensions right off of the plans. If the plans are say 1/4, you use the 1/4 portion on the scale to determine the real world dimension. These triangular shaped rulers, one feet long can be purchased at just about any building center if you want to make the investment. 
Many plans do not actually list the scale. This is still not a problem, because you can easily "calibrate" the plans by measuring a known distance on the plans to determine the scale. Simple plans that are drawn by hand or with no scaling in mind still have an implied scale, but determining the scale is those cases is usually unnecessary or perhaps even impractical. If for example, a 6 foot piece is represented on the plans as 2 3/8", the scale can be calculated as: 6 feet divided by 2.375 (2 3/8" converted to decimal number) is 2.52. This means that on these plans, 1 inch represents 2.52 or about two and a half feet in the real world. Although you know this scale, using it may be somewhat cumbersome. Computer generated plans are usually preset to well known and workable scales like 1:4 or 1:3 or 1:8. Scaling off parts from common scales like these is quite easy. So, by dividing a known distance in feet on a plan, by the distance on the plan in inches, you can determine what ONE inch represents on the plans. Once you know that, you can determine any measurment, any part or any distance on the plans that may not be dimensioned for you.
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