Weekly Tips August 07

August 15, 2007

Some Hammer Basics

Did you know that the hammer is the most dangerous tool in the workshop? Statsictically, it causes the most accidents. Fortunately they are also less serious than injuries with power tools like table saws and routers. Perhaps people take extra care with power tools and believe that little harm can come to them with a hammer. Hammer injuries are usually bruises and cracked nails, but sometimes they can be quite serious.

When you buy a hammer, get the best hammer you can afford. Many novice hobbyists accumulate a handful of budget hammers, when all that money could have bought them one quality hammer for quality workmanship.

Here are things to look for when you buy a hammer:

The most common hammer to start with is a 16 oz claw hammer. Buy that first and later on you can consider a 20 oz framing hammer and a smaller clar hammer for fineer work.
The handle you select is a matter of personal preference. Hardwood handles are the classic choice however metal handles with grips and fibreglass are also popular amongst professionals.
The head should be precisely machined. Avoid cheap heads made entirely from cast iron. The head should be 100% tight on the handle. A loose head will vibrate, make you tired and poses a danger. A loose head will glance off of nails and may eventually fly off altogether.
Get a hammer with a dimpled head. Most quality 16 oz hammers have this feature and all framing hammers will as well. The dimples prevent glancing, bent nails and injuries.
Feel the hammer for balance. When you use your hammer you swing it. The weight of the head drives the nail in. Professionals who drive many nails always swing their hammer, and that requires one with balance.
The grip should be comfortable. Imagine holding that hammer all day. Would it be damp with sweat and hard to hold? It should have deep pores for maximum air circulation around your skin.

A quality hammer will be the best investment you'll ever make in your shop or toolbox. This tool may even be handed down from generation to generation!

August 23, 2007

METAL ROOFING IS A GREAT WAY TO GO

Most amateur builders shy away from metal roof installations. Although a little more money than a shingled roof, installation
is faster and not as hard as you think and the look can be superior. Here is a simple guideline that will make installation as
easy as a conventional shingled roof. And most metal installations typically last twice as long as a shingled roof as a minimum.

Metal roofing should be installed on a solid wood deck, minimum 7/16″ thick. Roofing can also be installed in 2″ x 4″ strapping, recommended 16″ on center. Number 14 screws must be used when fastening into 7/16 OSB.
A minimum of 15 pound roof felt must be used under metal roofing to prevent condensation.
Place first sheet at edge of roof away from prevailing wind, check for plumbness. Over hang roof sheets ¾″ to 1″ at eave.
Screw panels down in a uniform pattern 24″ on center up roof slope on a solid deck or at each purlin on a strapped roof. On roof panels, place screws in every major rib.
For the siding, longer screws should be placed in the top of the overlap, the rest of the screws placed in flat pan beside every other major rib. All screws at lap should be screwed firmly in place first. Finish screwing panel, working from lap across the sheet. Note, all screw holes should be predrilled.
Gable trim must be installed before the ridge cap. Screw the gable trim down placing fasteners through the 1″ leg of the gable trim. A bead of butyl sealant should be used between gable leg & roof panels to prevent leaking around the screws.
Install ridge cap using 1 ½″ screws placing screws through the top of every major rib. Each section of the ridge cap should be overlapped by a minimum of 6″. The use of butyl or urethane sealant on the overlap is recommended.
The closure strip is installed under the ridge cap approximately a ¼″ in from the edge of the cap, so that the screws will catch the closure strip. At eave, place the closure ¼″ to ½″ in from the edge of the roof. Place screws on each side of the major ribs, screwing through the closure strip.
When ridge venting is required, the use of closure vents will give 9 square inches of net free air per lineal foot of ridge with the roof panel & 8 square inches of net air for our siding panel.
The closure vent is installed in the same way as a regular closure. You must use a ridge cap with a 3 5/8″ leg to cover the 3″ wide closure vent.